Now there’s no denying that the fashion world has it’s regular seasonal obsessions with the ‘new kid on the block’. Season after season it’s easy to see the way a fresh designer collection is hailed as the ultimate for the length of the season and then seldom heard of with the same level of publicity as soon as the weather changes.
The fashion media will find a new young designer to nurture and will proceed to propel to stardom for 15 minutes by
a) Being the first to tag their name all over social media like a 1970′s pash-rash
b) Jumping on the momentum of said designers’ bandwagon to self-promote themselves (via blog photographers) in the designers’ samples at Fashion Week
c) proclaiming that they’re “closet is full of their pieces, daaaaaahling!”
-that is, until the next big thing comes along.
It’s true! I remember it happening with little Thakoon Panichgul after his graduation collection for Parson’s. He was singled out by Anna Wintour and pimped out to GAP and Target faster than you could say ‘Michelle Obama’ (she gave him some well-deserved coverage). Same with Christopher Kane when he was fresh out of Central Saint Martin’s. His name was splashed left, right and centre (beside Donatella Versace’s!) until he just blended in to the fashion stratosphere. I saw it again with the sweet Rodarte sisters- They were all over WWD and had numerous consecutive CFDA nominations and wins through the years, but they’ve gone awfully quiet of late. Mary Katrantzou, similar thing. Fausto Puglisi, Celine’s rebirth, Ostwald Helgasson… they’ve all had little moments.
This week, I must have Chanel on the mind because, repetition aside, I just need to take a moment to declare how undeniably genius Chanel’s new Fall Winter 13/14 collection is. CHANEL is one of those label’s that is obviously tried and tested. There’s nothing ‘fad’ about Chanel. This is one label with craftsmanship and quality that can span generations. It can be appreciated by women of all age groups, and is able to reinvent itself without compromising it’s brand image. In it’s true to form monochromatic palette of greys, blacks and whites, Chanel sparkled with it’s hints of sci-fi-styling and it’s timeless elegance. I particularly liked the volume and proportions from the house this season, and definitely worth noting are those AMAZING ‘biker-meets-cowboy’ boots worn over tweed and leather gaiters. Genius! Best footwear I’ve seen in ages from Chanel.
One thing I’m not lusting over is the silly little furry eskimo hats scattered through the show- Over-styled for a bit of shock-factor, but not necessary and not chic enough to come from Chanel.
Below are some of my favourite looks from CHANEL Fall winter 2013/14:
“Inside Chanel” celebrates a new short film released by the house, retracing the history of Gabrielle Chanel and the iconic creations that helped her forge the House of CHANEL.
In this newly released video chapter by CHANEL, we discover how the Mademoiselle created the famous CHANEL jacket. The jacket started with a suit, which she introduced as a way of moving from the 1950′s silhouette which she considered too restrictive and not reflective of the time when women were struggling with modernity. Chanel’s suit was a comfortable, stylish creation made from timeless tweed, which would eventually become the houses’ signature fabric. It was made for active women. It allowed free movement. It was versatile and able to be worn day or night. The jacket came with a refined design; it was boxy, but there was more structure, and it would fit close to the body like a second skin.The centre front would close perfectly at edge to edge.
Since 1983, Karl Lagerfeld has reinvented the tweed jacket over and over again in each collection, in Gabrielle Chanel’s honour. As an extension to Karl and Carine Roitfeld’s book ‘The Little Black Jacket’ where we saw the timeless piece styled over a hundred different magnificent ways on international celebrities, we can now be part of the journey through time via Karl Lagerfeld’s sketches of the legendary Chanel jacket, below: The CHANEL jacket remains a must-have item in the wardrobe’s of fashion collectors around the globe and one of the fashion worlds most iconic individual pieces. Watch its’ evolution here:
Be gone bold prints! Away geometric confusion! Be rested, 50′s silhouettes.
Marni has entered a new era.
Although they still did manage to sneak in a few pairs of their signature child-like anti-fashion flatforms, their Fall 2013 is strikingly different to the collections past. Not only did they show a sombre palette of masculine blacks and browns, sending their tertiary brights on hiatus, but Consuelo Castiglioni has chosen to reveal prints of a woody hinterland on a very straight-up-and-down silhouette. Great for hiding those big Milanese lunches.
Castiglioni’s ‘Austere but Romantic’ collection was softened by way of fur trimmings, velvet and brushed mohair. It was beautiful Winter texture’s all over, just as it should be, making this my favourite Marni collection.One undeniable ‘FAIL’ for me was the Yeti-style ugg boots that aren’t attractive anywhere, not even on Catherine McNeil, and therefore not worthy of showing you on this column. It will damage your retina’s.
p.s Moda Maison loved seeing Sydney model fave Eva Downey debut on Marni’s runway. She also walked for Jonathan Saunders and Christopher Kane in London this season. Hot to trot.
If i was rich, and had the money to splurge on the world’s finest jewels, lathering myself in diamonds and precious stones of all hues and saturation’s of the colour wheel, then formed into quirky shapes representing nature, it would undeniably be Cartier.
Opening tomorrow is The Cartier Naturellement exhibition, being held at Sydney’s Museum of Contemporary Art Foundation Hall for one magical day only, Friday 22nd February 2013.
The exhibition celebrates the history of the secret garden of Cartier, where the wild and majestic felines come together with exotic birds and colourful insects and plants. Cartier’s long-time fascination with nature dates back to the early 20th Century. The forms of a flower have become the maisons’ signature identity, even long before it’s obsession with the animal kingdom. This is displayed in each collection, bringing modern flora and fauna-inspired pieces into three-dimensional keepsakes for the jewel boxes of lucky ladies around the world.
Below, a sample of the historical evolution of Cartier:
Images supplied courtesy of Cartier.
In general, I don’t love Miranda Kerr in an editorial capacity- I find her much too commercial a model to translate in to something organic and natural (fitting word choices considering we are talking about Miranda!). However, this being her first cover for (ModaMaison favourite) Jalouse magazine’s February edition, I felt I had to re-post this. The styling, mood and a doe-eyed Miranda was still captivating behind Slimane’s lens.
An example of the edit from my shoot this weekend for an international ELLE edition, out in May 2013.
I selected from the Spring 13 collections from Chanel, Mulberry, Louis Vuitton and Burberry. Mixed with Christian Louboutin and accessories from Cartier, Mawi, Erickson Beamon and new aussie label Ryan Storer.
The shoot was crisp white, meets sparkle on the beach. Touches of Neon gave the looks the fun Australian 90′s vibe.
Parisian jewellery designer Shourouk is flying through the fashion industry at lightning speed. In just a couple of short seasons, Shourok has been flaunted in fashion shows, film clips and movies and is fast becoming a house-hold name. Famed also for it’s popularity amongst street-style fashion maven’s (mainly for it’s bold and catching colours and consequently the ability to capture the attention of blog photographers), Shourouk’s signature style of ‘luxury and elegance’ makes each item a little statement piece of art. Available worldwide. For stockists see www.shourouk.com
Finally, here are the images for Poster magazine, shot by photographer Nicholas Samartis. I first mentioned model Marthe Wiggers and this story back in October, so here is the full shoot.
Moving on from last years ‘fetish’ fashion, we wanted to take black and leather in to a more layered, tailored direction, mixing Marni, Chanel, Givenchy and Balmain. Enjoy!