MODA

Margiela loves H&M

What do you get when you combine one of the world’s most successful chain stores with one of the fashion’s world’s edgiest design houses? A really unexpected fuse of high arty street-style fashion. No one does a designer collaboration quite like H&M, and this time it’s with one of my favourite labels Maison Martin Margiela, known for their play on proportions and deconstruction.

Margiela followers recently gathered with H&M fans at New York’s 5 Beekman Street for a preview at the new collaboration, together with some signature theatrical Margiela installations. The success of the MMM brand comes with the knowledge that they have developed a following based on only the quality and design of their pieces, and perhaps with an avid curiosity from followers, but sans expensive advertising and celebrity endorsements.
At a typical Margiela show, models are sent down their runway each season with their faces masked or covered in some way, ensuring that the viewer’s focus is on the garments, and not the star quality of the model opening and closing the show, for example. They also don’t promote their name on the swing tags of garments or the labels of fragrance, instead preferring to give each product category a consistent number somewhere between 0 and 23. We have rarely seen the super-discreet Martin Margiela in person, as he doesn’t do the end-of-show-wave typical of most ‘it’ brands. In late 2009 there was news that Margiela may have exited the brand as Creative Director, so it’s perhaps the design team that has produced this current H&M collaboration.

Considering Maison Martin Margiela normally fetches around $1400 AUD for any seasonal piece, this collaboration with H&M will give avid followers the opportunity to get a piece of the action.

Source: models.com

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Kendra Spears by Lachlan Bailey

A bit of a ‘Timepiece’ editorial for advertising support, obviously… but done in a creative way for Paris Vogue, nonetheless. Loving the way she looks impeccably groomed but still super-cool. And the voluminous hair is the best I’ve seen, coming out of season’s of tiring wet, slicked-back locks. Kendra Spears is blown away!

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Bulgari x Isabella Rossellini

Two of fashion’s most iconic people, Isabella Rossellini and Annie Leibovitz, have collaborated on some beautiful portraits to form the campaign for the new bag collection from Bvlgari. Depth, mystery and charm is what comes from the images.
I will never tire of Bulgari’s amazing bags and jewels, as each collection possesses all the things that I love. Texture, understated glamour, and beautiful materials in vintage palettes. Always elegant and with a touch of whimsy. Below, is the world of Bulgari, including images of the sophisticated mechanics of their watch movements.

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More than just a black jacket…

So it seems Sydney’s hottest invite was for the Chanel Little Black Jacket exhibition and party. Champagne flowed, canapés were offered faster than you’d finished your last, and no expense was spared. Elle Fanning, covergirl for the book, may have been a no-show, but it didn’t matter. Every inch of  Sydney’s Pier 2 and 3 was filled with portraits of Carine Roitfeld’s amazing styling. Who would have thought there would be so many ways to change the personality of a black bouclé jacket. Over 100 ways in fact.

A feast for the eyes. The ceiling was bursting with Chanel balloons and camelias.

It’s this one same jacket that’s been hand-crafted by artisans in French ateliers since the 1950′s, and one that comes from none other than the house of Chanel.
These atelier’s have been honing their skill’s for more than 150 years. So it’s pretty darn special.

some images from the exhibition

We’ve been hearing about Karl Lagerfeld’s ‘The Little Black Jacket: Chanel’s Classic Revisited’ for months, but last night was Sydney’s turn to launch the exhibition of Chanel’s iconic LBJ. More than 100 powerful images of the fashion and media worlds’ darling’s wearing some permutation of the black jacket will be on display until November 11th 2012. Kicking off tomorrow.

The images are available to buy as a 5kg coffee table book, co-authored and styled by Carine and photographed by the silver-haired, perpetually sun-glassed Lagerfeld.

Portrait wall-hangings were gifted on the night.
(L-R) Astrid Berges-Frisby, Theophilus London, Anna Mouglalis, and Elle Fanning.

 WATCH:   The Making of the Little Black Jacket

Chanel’s Little Black Jacket exhibition is at Pier 2/3, 13 Hickson Road Walsh Bay 2300

http://thelittleblackjacket.chanel.com/

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Marthe Wiggers/ IMG models

Back on the 1st September, I had the pleasure of working with amazing new model Marthe Wiggers (IMG Models) for an upcoming story in Poster magazine called “Before the Dawn” (I will post those pics soon!).  Her doll-like face, and wide eyes make her a unique beauty. Still unaffected by the fashion world, and yet so professional beyond her years, Marthe’s rising star is already shining brightly for a long career. Moda Maison chatted exclusively to the modelling world’s hottest new face.  Marthe chats to us about her love for Taylor Swift, and hopefully one day appearing in Vogue.

MM: Tell us about how you got into modeling…
MW: I was scouted in a restaurant by Jeni Rose and David Cunningham from IMG in 2011. I was out with my family for dinner and coincidentally, the venue for fashion week was right next door.

 MM: What was your first ever job?
MW: The cover of Spur magazine in Japan was my first job. I was crazy nervous!

MM: What’s your heritage/background?
MW: I am originally from Holland, but due to my dad’s work we’ve moved around quite a bit. I’m so fortunate to have seen quite a bit of the world!

 MM: Considering you have already worked overseas, what do you hope for your future career as a model?
MW:
One day I would love to be in Vogue, it is a dream of mine that I’m hoping will come true!

 MM: What’s your most prized fashion moment thus far?
MW: My most prized fashion moment so far would have to be shooting for Elle, as it was a magazine I knew well. To be honest though, this entire modeling experience has been amazing from the beginning until now, and I prize each moment of it.
 MM: You have worked quite a bit in Japan…What’s the one thing you miss from home when you’re working overseas?
MW: Because I live in Australia, I mainly miss the weather when I’m gone. I miss going to the beach and waking up to super blue skies and sunny days.

 MM: What do you always carry to jobs in your tote bag?
MW: I always carry around a bottle of water with me. Getting thirsty is really NOT fun when you are in front of a camera for a long time. Recently I have also been taking my script from drama class with me as I have been rehearsing for an upcoming performance of “The Importance of Being Earnest”.

 MM: What’s the best perk in being a model?
MW: The best part of being a model is all the people you get to meet and the gorgeous clothes you get to wear. Everyone is always so lovely and it’s interesting to meet new people and hear their stories.

 MM: Who are your favourite designers?
MW: It’s difficult to choose because I have worn a lot of beautiful things recently. If I had to name one, I absolutely loved the clothes I wore at a shoot for Manning Cartell.

About Marthe:

MM: What’s the last song you danced to?
MW: The last song I danced to was” I Knew You Were Trouble” by Taylor Swift. Last year, I was lucky enough to be right at the front of the mosh pit at her concert. Of  course the first thing I did was tell her how much I loved her!

 MM: What are your favourite subjects at school?
MW: History, Commerce and Drama are definitely my most favorite subjects!

 MM: If you could invite any 4 people over to dinner, who would they be?
MW: Being the crazy groupie I am, I would have to invite Ed Sheeran and Taylor Swift! I would also invite one of my best friends, Emily who has recently moved to Scotland. Lastly I would invite Gemma Ward- There is something so interesting about her and I look up to her so much! Apart from being a super successful model, she also became an actress which is definitely something I would like to try out in the future.


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What’s new with Choo?

Today Jimmy Choo held their Cruise ’13  collection showings at Sydney’s Shangri-La hotel, and each style spares no inch of glamour. Bold silhouettes have been inspired by 60′s designers such as Paco Rabanne and André Courréges, and the mod styling follows through to some ‘Barbarella’-style stand outs, combining sex and sport with ease.

Colours feel fresh and modern in bold pops of Citrine, Jade, Tourquoise and Tangerine. A mix of high shine silver, gold textured finishes, and some glossy patents emboldens the signature Jimmy Choo girl.

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Oh Aline!

23  year old model Aline Weber (Next NY) is a true chameleon. The Brazillian beauty, from Santa Catarina, made her debut in Spring 2006 and has been  clambering her way up the proverbial ‘modelling ladder’, over the years walking for Balenciaga, Calvin Klein, Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, Chloe, Isabel Marant, and just about every big name brand that means something. Which brings me to my next point- her editorial achievements thus far:

Appearing in many editorials for Vogue, Harpers Bazaar and i-D, Numero (most of my fave pics of Aline are from here), as well as the cover of L’Officiel, Dazed and Confused,  and more recently the cover of edgy Hungarian title ‘The Room’. She has also appeared in advertising campaigns for D&G and Moschino Cheap and Chic, as well as an acting role in Tom Ford’s famous directorial debut, a film called ‘A single Man’, playing the role of a student named Lois.

Her most recent show season was particularly successful, walking for Stella McCartney, Martin Margiela, Hussein Chalayan, Fendi,  Rodarte, Zac Posen, Prabal Garung, Helmut Lang. She has just featured in the Saint Laurent pre-collection 2013 campaign, photographed by fashions wonderboy Hedi Slimane.

Aline is repped locally by Chic Management. Below are some beauties from her folio. I couldn’t be a bigger fan.

Sources: models.com, wikipedia,
Images by Camilla Akrans, Giampaulo Sgura, Liz Collins, Patrick Demarchelier, Marton Perlaki,

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Some honourable mentions- Spring Summer 13 show round-up

Some honourable mentions  from the recent Spring Summer 13 show season, from some of my favourite designer’s.
The season’s power-piece? Boxy cut or oversize tops. They were everywhere.

BALMAIN-
27 year old Olivier Rousteing was undoubtedly all about the 80′s power-suits when he was sketching this collection. References to the kind of garb you’d see on supermodels of that era. He showed deeply cut lapels,  sexy midriffs, wide shoulders and high-waisted trousers. Some double-breasted  jackets had a bit of a ring-master feel.  Soft Latino references  with diamond checkered Harlequin prints on jackets and pants, and lots of bold stripes. Palette of black, white and ‘flattened’ yellow, with flashes of indigo denim for added cool.

ALEXANDER WANG–
If there was one award for the most creative designer to rework a monochromatic palette, season after season, Wang would win. His signature traditional All-American sportswear was a lot more tailored than usual this season. More clinical, even. The ‘Splicing’ of everything symetrically was present throughout the collection, as Wang cut-out sections through shoes, and the hemlines of jackets and skirts,  as though the boxy shapes  made from leathers and cottons were just floating away from the body. Genius! Not sure I’d be getting into those spliced boots though- they look like they add more girth than I’d care to wear on my calves!

 

PROENZA SCHOULER-
Jack McCulloch and Lazaro Hernandez, the sexiest boys in fashion, have just this season opened their first ever store on Madison Ave.  For Spring 13, they revisted the signature fashion-forward oversized silhouette we love them for, and showed more boxy torso’s and cool a-line skirts. Just general wearable goodness typical of the Proenza boys.  And loads of exotic skins like python and leather. Their collections are repeatedly dripping with so much freaking enviable downtown cool, I can’t bare to write any more on this subject. And it’s for this reason that I chose to include more pictures. And one of the boys – just because!

BALENCIAGA-
Fleshy as ever, Nicholas Ghesquiére’s collection for Spring posessed 3 s’- Sexiness, Sensualness , and Structure. With references to Cristobal’s  historical designs from the 50′s and 60′s, Ghesquiére was again technically brilliant in his modern fabrications; he had dipped t-shirts in glue to thicken them,  and managed to work in voluminous flamenco-style structured ruffles that sat miles away from the body, with some of those pieces so brief, they required undergarments.

 

GIVENCHY-
Ricardo Tisci went back to his roots for Spring Summer 13 at Givenchy, exploring his Catholic Italian heritage again, as he did in his first seasons, but in a more sugar-coated way. Tisci’s  style is often typically Gothic. Whilst he still referenced the Church by way of priest’s collars, bishop’s sleeves,  and ruffled necklines sitting atop shoulders so covered they were like clergy cloaks, this time it was a softer approach. Super-controlled organza ruffles and a palette that included baby blue!  Not nearly the erotic collection he is known for, but still edgy.
And aarrgh -beauty-wise- I will never tire of the effective simplicity of a bum-part on the catwalk!all photos style.com

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Ellie Ross by Matthew Webb

Below is a story I worked on with photographer Matthew Webb, and Aussie model Ellie Ross, who shot  with us only a mere couple of days after flying back in to Oz.

We’ve titled it “Smoke the night away…”

All images by Matthew Webb

Chanel dress, Wolford tights, Marni heels

Sass and Bide bra, Nancy Ganz briefs

The Cassette Society bra, Asos.com leather pants

Marni coat, The Cassette Society leather skirt, Gucci gloves

Calvin Klein shirt, Zambesi camisole

 

Alexander McQueen dress from Myer, Salvatore Ferragamo blouse, Chanel boots

 

 

 

 

 

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Nicholas Kirkwood’s protégé Sophia Webster

Another one to watch:

Before she’d even graduated from the Royal College of Art, Sophia Webster’s final student collection was picked up by Browns. She then worked for Nicholas Kirkwood for 2 years as his first ever design assistant. He promised to mentor her for that time until she was ready to branch out to launch her own shoe label, with the support and stamp-of-approval from Kirkwood. She’s since been picked up by Net-A-Porter, Bergdorf’s, Neiman Marcus, Saks, Colette and Harvey Nichols!

Her first collection, which showed at London Spring 2013 fashion week, based around the ‘Dollhouse’, was a selection of cute-as-pie colours, hearts, polka dots and flamingoes for the feet! All with an obvious tropical West Palm Beach feel and with a hint of African inspiration and Aztec trims.

Her signature could be identified as in-your-face, Look-at-me, strong-silhouetted street styles with graphics that will no doubt be recognisable at the shows, and heavily referenced by high-street brands.

Images from Style.com, WWD.
centre: Sophia Webster’s Paris showroom

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