Some honourable mentions from the recent Spring Summer 13 show season, from some of my favourite designer’s.
The season’s power-piece? Boxy cut or oversize tops. They were everywhere.
27 year old Olivier Rousteing was undoubtedly all about the 80′s power-suits when he was sketching this collection. References to the kind of garb you’d see on supermodels of that era. He showed deeply cut lapels, sexy midriffs, wide shoulders and high-waisted trousers. Some double-breasted jackets had a bit of a ring-master feel. Soft Latino references with diamond checkered Harlequin prints on jackets and pants, and lots of bold stripes. Palette of black, white and ‘flattened’ yellow, with flashes of indigo denim for added cool.
If there was one award for the most creative designer to rework a monochromatic palette, season after season, Wang would win. His signature traditional All-American sportswear was a lot more tailored than usual this season. More clinical, even. The ‘Splicing’ of everything symetrically was present throughout the collection, as Wang cut-out sections through shoes, and the hemlines of jackets and skirts, as though the boxy shapes made from leathers and cottons were just floating away from the body. Genius! Not sure I’d be getting into those spliced boots though- they look like they add more girth than I’d care to wear on my calves!
Jack McCulloch and Lazaro Hernandez, the sexiest boys in fashion, have just this season opened their first ever store on Madison Ave. For Spring 13, they revisted the signature fashion-forward oversized silhouette we love them for, and showed more boxy torso’s and cool a-line skirts. Just general wearable goodness typical of the Proenza boys. And loads of exotic skins like python and leather. Their collections are repeatedly dripping with so much freaking enviable downtown cool, I can’t bare to write any more on this subject. And it’s for this reason that I chose to include more pictures. And one of the boys – just because!
Fleshy as ever, Nicholas Ghesquiére’s collection for Spring posessed 3 s’- Sexiness, Sensualness , and Structure. With references to Cristobal’s historical designs from the 50′s and 60′s, Ghesquiére was again technically brilliant in his modern fabrications; he had dipped t-shirts in glue to thicken them, and managed to work in voluminous flamenco-style structured ruffles that sat miles away from the body, with some of those pieces so brief, they required undergarments.
Ricardo Tisci went back to his roots for Spring Summer 13 at Givenchy, exploring his Catholic Italian heritage again, as he did in his first seasons, but in a more sugar-coated way. Tisci’s style is often typically Gothic. Whilst he still referenced the Church by way of priest’s collars, bishop’s sleeves, and ruffled necklines sitting atop shoulders so covered they were like clergy cloaks, this time it was a softer approach. Super-controlled organza ruffles and a palette that included baby blue! Not nearly the erotic collection he is known for, but still edgy.
And aarrgh -beauty-wise- I will never tire of the effective simplicity of a bum-part on the catwalk!all photos style.com